As I was packing my lunch and thermos of hot tea into my kayak I noticed the water in the Estero Americano running urgently toward the sea. Little eddies swirled quickly past the launch. A fallen Poplar tree had been pushed by the current up against the bridge. The current held it tight against the bridge pilings. The trunk almost blocked the channel.
I had never seen water flow so quickly through the Estero. I expected to find its mouth open when I got out to Bodega Bay.
The winds were calm. The sun shone strongly enough to take the chill out of the morning air. Without much effort I floated down the channel through the pastures and out beyond the dairy. Soon I found myself surrounded by Estero Americano’s calm beauty.
Estero Americano Serenity
Bufflehead ducks, one of the smallest ducks we see, spend winter all across the southern United States. They winter as far south as Mexico and spend summers in Canada. In January they are a common wintertime sight in Northern California. Yesterday was no exception. They were everywhere in couples or small flocks, often groups of two to four couples.
Bufflehead Duck Couple
As I paddled past the hanging gardens I was cheered to see Barney and Betty Barn Owl watching over the middle reach of the Estero.
We see each other regularly.
When paddling solo I usually see River Otters in the Estero. They often seem curious about a quiet human in a bright orange boat.
This otter had a long look before deciding to vamoose. The camera scared him.
Had I not been upwind of this fellow, I think I’d have gotten closer. I could hear it sniffing me.
Rounding the final bend in the Estero, I could hear the roaring ocean. By now the current carried my boat at a good clip toward the breakers. It would be a bad time to lose my paddle! This is why I tie my paddle to my boat. Otherwise I would risk losing it while handling my camera.
This scene put some butterflies in the stomach.
The Estero’s mouth was open.
A beach swept clean by storm waves
The beach had been washed clean by huge waves from the recent storms. My bootprints were the only human footprints in the sand.
Looking south, toward Tomales Point in Point Reyes National Seashore
I had lunch and tea in the dunes. A peaceful interlude.
Lunch spot in the dunes.
Here is a 24-second video of the water running out of the Estero.
At least two harbor seals were working the mouth of the Estero. Having seen Steelhead Trout in the Estero last year, my hunch is that at least a few Steelheads try their luck at spawning in the Estero watershed. That would explain the Harbor Seals, who don’t often come into the Estero these days. This one seems to have already enjoyed a midday meal.
I could be reading too much into that facial expression.
A curious River Otter visited my kayak while I was exploring the beach. He or she left muddy footprints on the foredeck. Perhaps it was the same one that I saw on the way out.
Foredeck footprints of a curious otter
The way home against the current was a real slog. The current strengthened in the afternoon, perhaps with the falling tide at the ocean. I got a workout bigger than I bargained for.
Despite my weary arms I saw things I had not noticed on the way out.
Deer? What deer?
Zoomed in, you can see them.
They kept their distance from me.
A picnic table belonging to Sonoma Land Trust lodged high in the rocks. (I’ll call to let them know where it is—I’m guessing they don’t know what had happened to it.) The Land Trust has preserved 547 acres of land near the mouth. These acres will eventually be open it to the public.
Sonoma Land Trust’s picnic table
A Turkey Vulture sunned itself on a fencepost.
TV worth watching!
The paddle back to the launch against the current took nearly three hours. I estimate that the current added the equivalent almost three miles’ worth of distance to the already five-and-a-half mile long return journey.
Note fallen poplar tree in channel under bridge
It felt good to get home, tuckered out, hungry, and thirsty for a big cuppa hot black tea.